Published article: Coast Report Covid19 – Italy.pdf
Villa Fonte sits on the crest of a wide valley outlined with tall poplar trees, its rustic stone facade bathed in afternoon sunshine, bougainvillea draped from its doorway. Holiday apartments now occupy the old animal sheds and farm labourers’ dwellings above, while the tower on top of the house was the dove cot, and pigeons safely gather there today. Maria Bergamasco and her mother Mary inhabit the tastefully refurbished farmhouse next door, its west-facing terrace enjoying crimson skies and golden sunsets. The villa’s gardens boast olive trees, secluded seating areas and an outdoor pool which provides a refreshing respite from the heat of the day. San Gimignano, the City of Towers, lies on a neighbouring hillside a mere ten-minute drive away, and in the opposite direction sits the ancient town of Certaldo with its funicular train offering panoramic vistas of this beautiful part of Tuscany.
I first met Maria in September 2016 when I went to stay at Villa Fonte, and we became instant friends. Maria’s Italian father brought his family back to Italy after many years living in London, and as the eldest child, Maria has taken on his legacy. Despite her fluent Italian, Maria speaks with a refined soft English accent and single-handedly runs a charming and successful tourist business. In this current pandemic which has hit Italy so terribly, I decide to get in touch with Maria to see how she is coping with day-to-day life at Villa Fonte.
“In Tuscany, we have been in quarantine now for two weeks,” she tells me. “In some towns in the north of Italy, people have been confined to their homes for more than a month. Every business has been affected and here in a region where the economy revolves around tourism, we have been dramatically effected.” I ask her how daily life has changed for her and those in her community. “Italians love to be with people”, she tells me. “Breakfast is often in one of the many bars, a chat with a friend on the way to work, a mid-morning coffee, before returning home for lunch where Mamma’s pasta is ready and waiting, the tantalizing odours of delicious sauces wafting from open windows through the little lanes and streets”. I am suddenly reminded of the cooking course Maria arranged for me with a local woman in her Certaldo home.
Maria continues, “then its back to the bar for an after-lunch espresso, a glance at the local newspaper, and back to work. At around 6pm, everyone is out in the main street or square chatting to friends, catching up on the latest gossip or indulging in an ice-cream.”
Sadly, since the advent of the Coronavirus, Maria tells me that this routine has been replaced with uncertainty and confinement. “To go out anywhere, you now need to put on a mask, don disposable gloves and have a Government form obtainable from the internet which must be filled out with personal details, why you need to go out, where you have come from, where you are going and when you will be back home. Unless you have a special dispensation because of the type of work you do, you may only go out to buy food, go to the Pharmacy or to a hospital.” Thankfully, it seems that at the moment Canada is not at this stage. Although the queuing at the supermarkets sounds very similar. “Peak hour is constantly changing as everyone is trying to avoid long hours standing in line.” Maria’s next statement is quite shocking. ”There are drones hovering above most towns and local Police patrolling the streets checking everything that moves. Being caught without the relevant paperwork or outside your Municipality means a very hefty fine or even a jail sentence.” She laughs a little nervously as if trying to shrug this off, “Italians are individualists and not the most law abiding people! They tend to circumvent things if they can, but I have noticed that most people are now being very orderly and obedient.”
I ask her what has been the most upsetting thing for her about the situation in Italy. “One of the most heart-wrenching things I have ever seen are pictures on the news of convoys of Army trucks carrying coffins from hospitals in the north where the virus has been most insidious, to cemeteries in other regions far from the families they left behind. There are just not enough plots in the local cemeteries to accommodate them.” “This may sound logical to most people but for most Italians this is very difficult to accept. At any time during the year, if one passes even the smallest cemetery there are always fresh flowers and small candles glowing below the headstones, keeping the memory of lost loved ones alive. Families often visit graves at weekends and there are many widows who make a daily pilgrimage to tend their husband’s grave.”
Indeed, it has been reported that many more men than women have died of Covid-19 in northern Italy. Maria adds, “We take being near to a dying relative and having the consolation of burying them with dignity for granted. This is being denied to the families of Covid-19 victims. For Italians, knowing that even visiting a grave will not be possible, is very difficult to accept.”
A sobering thought indeed.
Maria is ever-positive and perks up the conversation. “Keeping busy is so important for all of us at present!” she says. “I am extremely lucky as I live in the country and have a large house which is divided into four self-catering apartments and a big garden. It means I get lots of exercise which is great. I always have my “things to do” list – lists that get even longer as I constantly dream up new ideas about the decor in the apartments. I cannot go out so I have invented new ways to use what I have stored for ages and given new identity to furnishings. One good reason for not throwing things away!”
Maria ends our conversation on a lighter note by recounting the recent story of her punctured car tire. “I am more than adept at taking off my ride-on mower tires which are constantly needing to be mended,” she recounts, “but how on earth was I going to remove those bolts which have been tightened with the frightening grip of a garage mechanic’s drill?” So, instead she tried to remove the car wheel. “I jacked up the car, sprayed the bolts with lubricating oil, got out a wheel spanner, attached it to the bolt and jumped on it! Not an inch did it move.” Time to phone a friend. “ Add a long, hollow iron stick to the end of the wheel spanner and it will give you extra leverage,” said the friend. “Now why didn’t I think of that?” laughed Maria.
So while you are at home and dreaming of Italy, remembering past holidays or missing family and friends, remember that life goes on day-to-day and we must all stay safe and stay busy. Whether it’s gardening, redecorating or changing car tires, there are ways to remain positively engaged while we all wait for these strange times to pass. I know Maria will keep the spirit of Villa Fonte alive and well in the meantime. Molto bene Maria!
For more information on Villa Fonte, please contact:
La Fonte Self Catering Apartments
Via Canonica 4
San Gimignano 53037
Italy
www.la-fonte.com
email: meblafonte@gmail.com
Tel: +39-0577-944845
Cell: +39-339-1343537