Wednesday’s are market days in the ancient Roman town of FREJUS – where from 09.00-12.30 you can buy the freshest vegetables, olives, dried sausages, cheeses, local honeys and herbs for rediculously low prices. The market is alive with activity, paella smells, the excited banter of the “commerçants” until 12.30 when “l’heure de déjeuner” calls and the market stalls wrap up and disappear as if by magic. I lunch at the Restaurant l’Hermitage facing the square – €11 for the ‘Plat du Jour’ – and soak up the atmosphere, the sights and sounds of the day interspersed by the sudden peel of bells visible on the Cathedral tower. This is local life in Provence at its best.

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